There’s something undeniably other-wordly about an octopus. They can taste the world around them as they touch it, they change colour to communicate, and their lack of skeleton allows them to squeeze into the tiniest of spaces. They are part of the same biological group as snails and clams, yet have high levels of intelligence, problem-solving skills and playfulness. Evolutionary biologist Dr Jakob Vinther suggests that if we were ever to meet an intelligent alien life-form, they may be a little less human-like than we typically think, and a little more like these fascinating animals that live in Earth’s oceans.
Yet there’s also increasing demand for octopuses on the plates of gourmet diners. In 2014, almost eight times more octopuses were caught than in 1950. With this increasing demand comes growing pressure on already shrinking wild populations. Many octopus fisheries are already experiencing issues with overfishing, where octopuses are caught in higher numbers than the population can replenish. Overfishing of one species not only risks their loss but has the potential to affect the entire community they live in.
It is this overfishing that Spanish multinational Neuva Pescanova claims to be addressing with the world’s first commercial octopus farm, that will start selling farmed octopuses in 2023. Through producing 3,000 tonnes of octopuses every year, they aim to “reduce pressure on fishing grounds and ensure sustainable, safe, healthy and controlled resources”.
Only there are concerns over how sustainable octopus farms can actually be. Established fish farms are already associated with the loss of natural habitats, spread of disease and the overuse of antibiotics. Add onto this the huge amount of fish that octopuses depend on to live, and the whole argument of sustainability begins to fall apart.
It’s probable that octopus farms will only increase the pressure on fish populations already struggling with overfishing. Food webs are complex, and methods to conserve a singular species cannot be done in isolation.
The ethics of octopus farming are also questionable. There is strong scientific evidence octopuses are sentient and capable of feeling both pleasure and distress. They also need high levels of mental stimulation and are solitary animals. When kept in confined spaces with others, they can become aggressive and may even turn to cannibalism. Nueva Pescanova have yet to disclose the conditions for the octopuses, but with a lack of official regulation, it’s doubtful how many of octopuses’ needs will be met by a commercial farm.
While overfishing of any species is and should be a concern, octopus farms are an unethical approach that do not sustainably address the ecological problems they claim to. By ignoring the complexity of the natural world, they simply shift the pressures of overfishing elsewhere. It’s even harder to justify octopus farms when they are not essential for food security. The main market for farmed octopus is upscale outlets selling to affluent customers. Governments, companies and academic institutions have all invested in the development of octopus farms, but perhaps to actually address sustainability issues their money should be focused elsewhere.
