Taking place in Millennium Gallery, Off the Shelf Festival brought Justine Picardie, former editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar, to the Steel City for one remarkable hour.
Perhaps the fastest hour of my life, Picardie took us on a whirlwind journey through the life and impact of the legendary Coco Chanel.
French fashion designer and businesswoman, Gabrielle ‘Coco’’ Chanel is the founder and namesake of the Chanel brand. The epitome of timeless fashion, she revolutionised women’s clothing through her focus on practicality and making the move away from corset silhouettes.
While the iconic designer takes the forefront of many a discussion, few details are actually known about the visionary. That is, until Picardie began to dedicate her time to not only dredging through unorganised archives full of images and documents, but also to travelling to key locations that shaped Chanel’s life and creations.
The talk began with immediate earnestness. Sharing a childhood story about her mother’s wedding dress, which was made from a Chanel pattern, Picardie set the tone for where her fascination began.
Describing her parents’ speedy marriage, this personal detail instantly made us feel like we were chatting with an old friend rather than attending a formal lecture. Laughter rippled through the audience when she casually mentioned her birth ‘a month early,’ setting the perfect tone for an engaging session.
Aside from Picardie’s ability to form a connection with a packed-out room, what made this event stand out was its ability to humanise Coco Chanel despite her death five decades prior to now.
Justine didn’t simply rattle off Chanel’s list of accomplishments; she uncovered the woman behind the legend and made us think deeper about the history and designs we already know.
We heard about Chanel’s challenging childhood, her early encounters with loss, and how these experiences profoundly shaped her art.
Coco Chanel was a rule-breaker. She dared to wear men’s clothing when it was unheard of for women to do so.
Justine showcased images of Chanel straddling horses, defying the traditional sidesaddle, and revolutionising the way women could move. And let’s not forget the iconic little black dress (LBD). First shown in Vogue in 1926, nearly a century later it remains a symbol of timeless female strength.
While the LBD is a term we’ve all come to recognise, its impact at the time is not necessarily something we consider. Justine effortlessly explained the seemingly obvious, that through Chanel’s heartbreak she twisted the meaning of the colour black.
From a symbol of mourning, black became a symbol of strength. Women can be upset to have lost loves, but to continue through it is where our power lies.
Justine reminded us that Chanel’s work wasn’t just groundbreaking in her time; it remains timeless. A rare achievement for any industry, nevermind one so saturated and ever-changing.
Her unrelenting dedication to her craft was evident in every photo shared during the event. Specifically striking was an image of 87-year-old Chanel, seen adorned in her own designs and standing with a look of determination on the staircase in her namesake store, having continued to design until the day she passed away in 1971 and leaving behind an enduring legacy.
Timelessness and Chanel’s influence extended far beyond her fashion designs, too.
Justine’s description of Chanel No. 5 was nothing short of enchanting. Again, she shared stories of her mother and added further context of her difficult divorce. While seemingly unnecessary details when focused on the event as the history of Chanel, rather than Picardie, these details were more than natural and welcome – aiding in not only giving emotion to her sharing of information but being a cause of why the event flew by so seamlessly.
To the audience, Chanel No. 5 was no longer just a fragrance; it became a symbol of the women in our family – and their independence and elegance.
When sharing stories of her time with Chanel’s grand-niece, sharing her name of Gabrielle Chanel, Justine reminisced on trying on one of Chanel’s own jackets, finding a handkerchief and noticing it smelt of the perfume even years on.
Now, Chanel No. 5, just like the brand’s clothes, is a timeless scent amongst all generations.
The event couldn’t have been complete without mentioning the success of the current Coco Chanel exhibition at the V&A.
With Picardie having a hand in its curation, we gained insight into the thought process behind England’s first Chanel exhibit.
Speaking of a print of Chanel’s hand, Picardie explained the decision to place this at the beginning, with visitors often placing their hand in front to feel a connection with the designer – something Picardie herself did when she first uncovered the image.
The exhibit is not just a success; it’s the fastest-selling exhibition in the museum’s history, and it remains entirely sold out. That speaks volumes about the ongoing fascination with Chanel’s life and work itself.
And it’s no surprise. The bigger question is why is this the first Chanel exhibit in England?
Justine repeatedly circled back to Chanel’s relationship with British textiles. From the Huddersfield textile factory to Linton tweed, these materials played a significant role in Chanel’s designs. It was fascinating to see images of Chanel sporting traditional British menswear, including tweed and leather boots in the photos.
This event was a captivating journey through the life and times of Coco Chanel, but also through the fascinating life of Picardie and her connection to the designer.
Justine Picardie’s engaging storytelling and her ability to make Chanel’s story so relatable turned a one-hour talk into a memorable experience.
If you ever get a chance to attend an event hosted by Justine Picardie, don’t miss it – you won’t be disappointed.
Rating: ★★★★★
Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life was published in 2010. Other Off the Shelf Festival events can be found here.
